Settling and Sinking In

Another weekend has passed. Two groups departed to various outings (one climbing and one to Amritsar (I will go later). There were three of us left and we fended well for ourselves (did some of our own cooking, ate up in McLeod Ganj etc).

On Saturday, I took a cab and went off to Palampur (about an hours drive out from Dharamshala). The driver took me to various sites (all for about $40 US for 7.5 hours). I visited two temples (one to Durga and one to Shiva), a pottery studio, an art gallery, a tea factory and saw the sites around the area.

Palampur is quite a bit larger than Dharamshala but the market looked pretty much the same - just more stores. However, the produce seemed more varied and more plentiful. The Durga temple (Chambra Devi) was very bright and busy with almost a carnival air to it. Pictures were not permitted in the inside but the Durga (goddess of war/power) was clothed in red - I was told this was a particularly wrathful version of the goddess. People hawking offerings lined the entrance area, pushing their wares. Upon entering, we removed shoes (yes, they were still there when we returned), washed hands, and walked in barefooted. After offering a few rupees and obtaining our blessing and some sweets we emerged into the temple area where there was a large pool. People were swimming and there were paddle boats around. Several statues surrounded by metal picket fences and in sad need of repainting were around. There were monkeys, goats, and lizards around. There was also a camera store - which really seemed out of place.




Another temple was a Shiva temple - I liked this one lots more.
It was very old, elaborately carved stone. It actually felt more holy to me. Of course there were many people but only one selling offerings (usually rice, coconuts, etc). We again made an offering and got more of the dried sweets - I tried a small piece and threw the rest to the birds later! It does seem that each god/goddess has a distinct personality that comes out in the temple feeling, architecture, etc. I feel much more drawn to the Shiva sites.


I also went to a tea factory and was taken on a personal tour of the plant. On the way, we passed many fields of tea plants. The person taking me around explained the tea-making process in great detail from harvest, to drying, to rolling, to grading, etc. There are 35 year around workers and more for the harvest times (March - October if the weather cooperates). The Kangra tea is a Chinese hybrid and competes directly with Dargeeling. I bought a box of A and B tea (C or broken tea is the finely ground tea that is used in bags). My guide said C grade tea colors the water but has little taste! Yes, I will bring home some for sampling. Two huge boxes cost me only $4 US (about 200 R).

I found that even when driving on "real" two lane roads the drivers are quite willing to pass on curves and always are blowing horns. I have no idea how tires and suspension lasts at all on these roads. I was quite bruised from 5 hours of driving around, and always glad when we arrived somewhere to walk about.

The mountain views were awesome also - from lower in the valley.

During this same weekend we were up in McLeod and I got to take pictures of the temple where the Dalai Lama spoke - so I can now illustrate more clearly where I was during the talk. That temple really feels very holy and special. People enter and several were doing prostrations. Workers were refinishing the floors and several monks and lay people were seated in various places praying or saying their prayer beads. It is quiet and respectful. I want to return there for the peaceful feeling. (the downloading is going slowly - so these pics will come next "issue")

I have had several foods in McLeod - one must be very careful. The hot porrage with honey and banana was excellent, as was the vegetarian spaghetti - Italian spots do a roaring business, as do the bars - Kingfisher is the beer of choice - I haven't had alcohol because the altitude makes getting drunk worse - and it doesn't take much to affect me at sea level!

The amount of quiet time is amazing. With most people preparing for several holidays, there is little to do. I will probably go to market tomorrow - again another holiday - for the writer of the Ramayana. Dinner tonight is a mix of mashed potatoes, spaghetti and red sauce (think Indian hot), a chicken and mushroom dish and the ever present "salad" of sliced onion, tomato, cucumber, and radish.

Tomorrow we will meet the head of CCS in India Mrs. Bela Singh and then I will help the cook, Rakesh, make the halwah - a sweet wheat (fruit- this time pumpkin), and sugar desert that I love.

I have also succumbed to the cold that has been going around - so I have the sore throat and a bit of sniffles. I am moving upstairs in the house tomorrow - I will end up with a new roomie - my Aussie is moving in with someone else....the attachment thing coming home again! The second floor is nice with a balcony and view and is quieter. I will have the room to myself for a few days- kind of a bonus.

Hope all is well and I am enjoying your emails to me ( I am now admitting to a bit of homesickness- text messages and emails are encouraged - this is a normal thing here- nothing to "worry" about - I am asking for what I need! Thanks to all Driftwood Players members who have been keeping me in touch and for making my husband feel at home, as he helps build set for "Fiddler".