This week has been more focused on the Tibetan aspect of the area. We have had a talk by a Lama and gone to Norbulingka (a center for Tibetan art and culture). The Lama spoke of loving kindness, compassion and gave an example of his regular day (lots of sitting practice). He traveled extensively with the Dalai Lama for many years before being made head of the center.
Norbulingka is a center about an hour out of Dharamshala that teaches young Tibetans the various arts of their culture, including metal and woodworking, and art and applique work. 
When you go north to McLeodGanj it is like moving into a different world. About half way up this steep, hairpin-turn lined "road" the buildings and people change into Tibetan (houses are yellow- different dress, etc). There were many cool gifts, a beautiful garden full of prayer flags, and our guide described in detail how many years the apprentices study for their art (usually somewhere between 3 and 12 years).
McLeodGanj is a bustling town (especially with the Dalai Lama speaking these two weeks). One can hear every language imaginable and there is a full range of dress, including Indian, western (ie bare arms, tight jeans, etc) and everything in between. There are leporous beggars (missing toes, fingers, etc) begging everywhere. Tons of shops selling absolutely everything. Prices vary considerably and I will do lots of looking before spending too much money. I did fall in love with a small brass bull (from whispering in the statue's ear on Sunday). He is a representation of Rama and if you whisper a wish in his ear while holding the other shut- your wish may be granted - we will see (I can't tell because it is kind of like birthday wishes). I did not find McLeod very spiritual at all. I got my pass to see the Dalai Lama (I will go either tomorrow afternoon or Saturday).
Other side trips have included a trip to a Hindi temple and picnic by a river on Sunday. We honored Shiva and got sacred ash put on our heads. Women cover their heads and all take off their shoes and wash hands, feet and mouth (sort of for those careful of the water). There is a fire there that has been burning for over 500 years. It was very hot but quite beautiful. Huge boulders and fast running water (though the level is quite low for the season). It was quite cold but with the help of the kitchen staff who fed us - I got across - I was glad for my hiking stick!
Also of Hindi interest is that the area is celebrating the 9 day festival of the goddess Durga -goddess of war, power, strength. They worship her every night and on the 9th night they tell the story of Rama's defeat of Ravana with the help of the monkey god. They burn an effigy of Ravana. Special foods are prepared and we had a lunch that included the desert Halwa (cooked wheat, sugar, dried fruit and nuts)- YUM!
Most of the women are off celebrating and after today it looks like we may be down to three - things do change fast around here!. We have another volunteer helping teach computer and the women love that - these three women will probably make good progress in their studies with the smaller class and one-on-one teaching.
On a personal front - I have stayed healthy. I am taking yoga daily - I am the only one who comes regularly. I love the class and Ragu (soft "g" - not like the spagetti sauce!) is going to start Pranayama (breathing exercises) with me on Monday. The food is excellent. I got to help prepare the Naan yesterday, though the cook is quite particular and had to fix mine - it is harder than it looks, especially the slapping between your palms to flatten the dough before putting it in the tandoor. The cook Rakesh says I may try again the next time - I did better on the second one than the first! The tandoor chicken was sooooo tender!
I am wearing western clothes (loose)today - but it feels odd - I actually enjoy the salwar kameeze- except perhaps the scarf which still doesn't stay up - some of the women have told me to pin it, especially the slippery ones. I need to get a cup for the butter tea they serve at the Dalai Lama's teachings - it is boiled so I will definitely take the chance. I am also hoping to hike this weekend - while I enjoy the yoga, I need to move more - though the altitude does take it out of you.
Other things- words are a mix for us of Indian English, British English (like "taking breakfast", Aussie words and Indian food words like curd for yougert, "toned" milk for shelf stable milk - the bagged milk is very "iffy" in my mind. They give us apples, bananas, persimons, pomegranates, limes, tomatoes etc but we wash and peel with due care - the hardest is remembering not to brush teeth in the water - our "safe" bottles of water are ever present and always being filled. Chai (milky sweet/spicy tea) is the only thing we can accept unless we go to McLeod and the restaurants are still iffy there - and there is so much street food and it smells good.
This week has gone faster than the last - I can't believe tomorrow is Friday! I got a fast connection in town - so lots of pictures~!
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