Japan Again - Kamakura, Narita and Home

Well, the rain is washing the snow away and I am still catching up on the Japan blogs. Seeing Japan as a tourist felt more like skimming the surface- which I tried to do a lot of. I definitely missed getting to know individuals more personally. The Japanese are so different from the Indians and yet they remain a facination for me. I know this is a country I will want to visit again. When I think of traveling more, I don't think of quick sightseeing trips- they seem too vague right now. Staying somewhere for a while - even the four weeks in Delhi - allows the newness and awe and fear to ripen into more in-depth views and talking to people living in the cities helps define them in a more "realistic" way. Realism takes time - something so few of us have available. I remember the Aussies and UK people being agast at our two week vacation policies and even more so that many many US workers don't even take vacation they will be paid for!

So, on to Thursday and Kamakura. Kamakura is a small town due south from Tokyo, accessable by rail (about one hour). It used to be the capital from 1192-1333. Today it has many many temples and gardens to see between Kita-Kamakura and Kamakura city proper. Again, easy to get lost! A bit west by train is the town and the attached island of Enoshima. Big draw are the potential sightings of Mt. Fuji either from the train or on the way to Enoshima. On the train, I did see Mt. Fuji- yeah!

After detraining in Kita-Kamakura, I followed the signs to several of the temples. Some I just could not find- others required backtracking. They were large and small, all with amazing cemateries and gardens. Even with it being late fall/early winter the shapes and trees were gorgeous. I saw many wisteria platforms and could only imagine them full of purple blooms in the spring!


The picture at the beginning is of Hotei - God of Happiness - I rubbed his belly good and hard.

After four hours of temples (no I did not see them all...)I finally came into Kamakura proper. I ate another udon/soba lunch and got a ticket for the train to the Diabutsu and Enoshima Island.

The buddha was awesome - you can even go inside to see how it was made. The train to the Island was nice- first ocean water I have seen in 13 weeks. Clear and cool day made for great viewing.
The car and foot traffic bridge to Enoshima were a great walk. I walked up the hill and into another temple. By this time it was near sun set - so I had to see this place much more quickly than I wished.
On the way back, I stopped for octapus crackers -spicy - and some other treats. I touched the Pacific near the pier and waited for the sunset. Mt. Fuji was a bit foggy but still visible.
Many stopped to point and admire "Fuji-san" in it's glory. Back on the train I headed home to Tokyo. Of course, I found myself back in Shibuya - wrong train - but knew enough to get straightened around. I arrived back in Ginza about 7:30 - bone tired. I decided to get dinner and eat in my room - so I went to B2 of Matsuya Ginza and bought an assortment of meat on a stick, edamame salad, a bento bowel of fish and greens and a sweet. I retired to my room and had my feast - really glad for the rest.

The next day, Friday, I revisted the fish market and had a bowel of ahi and semi-fatty toro with rice and vegies. The usual fare for the people working the market is not fish - but a pork and noodle soup that is served in huge bowels....it smelled great but not first thing in the morning.

The train to Narita was quick and easy - I didn't get lost, but carrying/wheeling my bags was a bit strenuous on the steps.



Arriving in Narita I walked to my ryokan - quite different than the first and settled in. I went out for a late lunch and finally had unagi (eel).
It is quite pricey but in Narita, being outside of Tokyo, the prices were reasonable. Yum, adult and babies and the usual miso soup and tea and pickles. On the way back through town I saw the zodiac statues and took pictures of all 12.

After lunch, I headed for the one and only temple...it was quite huge with many buildings and an amazing garden with many trails and three ponds - koi of course~!

I stayed for several hours and then walked back to my room. Dinner was sushi in a small sushi bar- the salarymen (and women) don't get in til after 7 p.m. when the activity in the restaurants picks up. It was good fish and saki. I knew the traveling day was ahead and called it a night.

Up early, I departed with a fellow traveler - getting lost - got on the wrong way train, but making it to Narita Airport in plenty of time. Flight to Hong Kong was pleasant but we got in very close to departure for my LAX flight. It turned out that that flight was delayed two hours - I am glad they fixed the landing gear! This made us late into LAX - I missed the last flight into Seattle - snow and more snow...Cathay Pacific put me up in the Westin LAX - my first mattress and box spring combo - and a two-headed shower...they fed me too. Trying to do the time change (almost 17 hours difference from Tokyo), I was in bed early and slept well.

After much confusion and planning (the folks at Alaska/Horizon were awesome considering the number of people in various moods they had to deal with). I decided on very nice and got a flight home through Santa Rosa, CA (a bit north of San Francisco)...I chose this because if I got stuck again, I could stop and see Wine Country! No need. Arrived in Seattle at 12:30 - the snow was getting worse again, so Cliff and I hurried home.

Next up - reverse culture shock!

Catching up on Japan

I know, I know....but with 10-12 hour days in Japan and no English available computer it was hard to blog...so here is the catch up - about a week late.

The days in Japan flew by- subways, food, more food, etc. I think the food junkie bit was due to not being able to /or choosing not to eat street food in India. I kinda went nuts the days in Japan. Royal milk tea from a vending machine and some bean paste cookies were a common snack.


Monday -after a visit to the Tourist Information Center I decided to start in Asakusa and saw the Senso-ji temple complex there.
I took a water taxi from there through many of the 12 bridges - This is a formal public transport - not just for tourists and the views are great. I chose to get off at the I landed by the gardens near the fish market and took a near sunset stroll (only 4:30) through these gardens. Beautifully kept. This is a 300 year old pine.

I then went out to get a hair cut - getting pretty shaggy - what a wonderful experience. Despite the huge language barrier, I was able to find a picture close to what I wanted. The stylist hung up my outer things and I got my "coat" on- then a shampoo - with a paper mask on my face- cut, dry, thin; then she rewashed my hair and dried it- fixed up odd bits and gelled it - upon paying and leaving she gave me her card- which I examined and bowed over (I read about this in Lonely Planet Tokyo) and departed.

Dinner was tempura - of course the restaurant specialized in that. I learned to mix my chopped radish (hot or mild) with the light soy sauce and then use that to dip the tempura in. The tempura is served one or two pieces at a time - piping hot and delicious. My favorite was the tempura patty- a mix of batter, vegies, and small shrimp -fried up like a small pancake- yum!

Mornings were the Japanese-style breakfast that came with my room. It was always brown rice, some yogurt, tofu, assorted vegetables/pickles and some type of miso or vegetable soup and tea...delicious. I ate about 8 a.m. and was usually out the door by 8:30 or 9 - not to return for many hours.

Right after breakfast Tuesday I headed to the Tsukiji fish market. While I couldn't see the auction - the outer market was great. I had fresh grilled scallop (about the size of my fist and nibbled from any and all offerings.

The later morning was spent traveling out to Shinjuku (the area where the government offices are). My main goal was the free observation towers there and hopefully a sighting of Mt. Fuji. Huge buildings and very modern (Seattle folks think Bellevue new). Many many salary men rushing about in the ever-present black suits.

I have noticed that all (and I do mean all) Japanese carry cell phones. They "personalize" them with small charms hanging off the phone by a light chain or "leash". These charms are really insights into the personalities behind the black and white look. I have seen small Mickey Mouse, sumo wrestlers, shoes, and pretty much anything you can think of...Cell phones are ever present. A glance over a seat-mates shoulder showed that they text by typing in a Japanese kanji and then a selection of words comes up - which they have either programmed or are "best guess" they choose and move on- slower texting than I see on English but it works well. Since is it "bad manners" to talk on cell phones on the subways, texting is going on. Even during rush hour, bags are stored overhead and one hand is used to hold on (if needed - sometimes not needed because of the crush)and the other to manipulate the phone!

The view was pretty good - no Fuji...I hoped for it when I went to Kamakura. Managed my way back and had lunch there in the walkway near another store.



Tuesday capped off with a visit to the Imperial Palace Gardens and then a sushi dinner of amazing proportions. Since the Emperor and family were in residence, the palace was not open. The gardens were quiet and pretty - again - a quick visit and walk back - this time all the way up the main street of Ginza in the growing dark - as the lights came on and people rushed about their business in such an orderly fashion compared to India. Even at crowded street crossings, the flow was amazingly civil and orderly - no horns - no running - no jaywalking!

The dinner was arranged for me by my ryokan- I gave them my price range and knew I wanted to stay in the Ginza district. They booked me at Seamon - (no not the place Anthony Bourdain went- my bad). It was beautiful, pricy and served impecably. There were probably a dozen or more courses and each complemented the previous ones in taste, texture and presentation. No, it was not a huge amount of food but each piece was perfect, served on a beautiful dish and so fresh and clean. I had saki with it and closed with a barley tea




Wednesday I woke to rain and decided (with the help of a texted forcast from a friend)to hold off on Kamakura for a day. I chose instead to go to Roppongi and Shibuya. Roppongi has the Mori Art Museum - a good rainy day idea and Shibuya has the busiest intersection in the world...

Seattlite that I am, I was not daunted by the rain, but I did get lost again once arriving at the museum (but not on the subway!)in Roppongi. Getting straightened out, I headed for the Art Museum and saw there were exhibitions on gold and (surprise surprise) India! It also included a view from the tower (not much to see in the rain). All this for about $20 US.



I also saw the Guiness World Record Post Box! Roppongi (hard 'g' sound)is very upper class it seemed but parts were regular "working class" style with some older areas. It is necessary to remember that most of Tokyo was destroyed in the bombings ending the Second World War - so very little architecture remains older than 60 or so years.

The exhibits were great- of course no photos allowed. I saw lots of gold from mining to Oscars and Gold Records (Susan Saranden's Oscar and Buddy Holly's record). The India exhibit was of new artists portraying Delhi and India - it was amazing- I really felt quite connected to it.

I had a soba noodle experience for lunch - I never knew you put the sauce and wasabi (all wasabi here was fresh ground) and then dipped in the cold noodles - yum. Of course, tea and rice and a few tempura shrimp for good measure. I had some bean paste filled cookies for desert from another booth.

Onward on the subway to Shibuya - really raining at this point- this required several changes of subway lines and of course, I got lost....


I never went outside here but from big glass windows saw the huge intersection and the tons of people crossing. There was also a Tokyu store there with the required two floors of amazing food....and a "kimono department"...I had to check this out. I have read several books on kimono and have an idea what goes into wearing one. The department was fascinating with all the parts (obi, obi cord, purses, shoes, tabi, etc). A woman asked me if I spoke English - I jumped- and asked if I had ever worn a kimono - I said - not correctly...she spoke with one of the sales people and soon I was dressed in a beautiful one - no big deal with the underpinnings but full on with collar and obi. They took pictures of me - I never thought of buying it- but then the sales person showed me the tag...it was a "used" one, 60 years old...it is now mine - I didn't buy a sari in India- one of my few regrets - but I do have the kimono - no obi but a light belt to hold it on - I know what I want for my birthday!

Dinner was beef - first in 12 weeks. It was at a small restaurant (most are and at least one to a building) near Ginza. The chef worked from many cuts behind a "beef bar" - think sushi bar but for beef. I had a wonderful dinner that included three different types of steak - all very different but unique and cooked perfectly on a little charcoal brazier. There was also some beef carpachio, beef intestine, and a few pickles and salads in between. Of course, a bit of rice, miso soup and tea afterwards. Total weight of beef was about 4-5 ounces. There was not enough English spoken for me to determine if Kobe was used at all - though each piece was perfect, tender and amazingly flavorful. My body did not like me later, despite feeding it this awesome desert - with a raincoat over the bag no less!~

On to Kamakura next post.

Japan....

This may be short and without pictures. Got the pictures added but can't move them-the cues are in Japanese! Japanese computers have many buttons we don`t have and some in different places.

The first thing I noticed was the quiet - no car horns. Then the lack of color in what people wear - but color is everywhere. There is little or no English here.

Food is beautiful, small, and delicious - delicate after the loud big plates of curry in India. I thought I would have trouble "tasting" but it is so different. There is tea everywhere (something Japan and India have in common).

I have walked over 20 hours in the past two days (not counting time on the various subways). I have seen the Fish Market - visitors are not allowed at the early auction because it is the busy season. I have taken a water taxi under most of the bridges, eatten soba noodles, tempura, sushi, and will have my first beef in 12 weeks tonight. The department stores have huge two floor arrays of food for sampling and purchase - it is like a food court, sample food show, grocery store, deli, etc all rolled into one. No pictures allowed - of course I snuck some.

The differences from India are huge - I have given up on comparison - I am just seeing so much - and I see with different eyes than I have ever traveled with before. While I don`t miss India, exactly, I am kind of feeling like I don't belong anywhere right now. I do miss my kids lots.

I will try to find an internet cafe (I know they exist - it is just reading the signs and going down the right street).

I will be home in 4-5 days (I do Sat the 20th twice)...It does seem like Christmas is close -decorations everywhere - Ginza is wild with moving signs, lights, etc...

I am looking forward to talking to and seeing all of you.

Good-Bye India

Well, the last day is over.

I went to placement and spent the day with the remaining seven kids (since 20 have moved on to different work sites with their families). We blew bubbles and then I gave the teachers a thank you note and showed them pictures of my family and Seattle. They gave me a note of thanks and some hand-made paper flowers. There were tears and so many feelings. The hardest is knowing I will most likely never see these children again or know what has become of them. I know that what I gained from teaching them these past four weeks has been priceless.

I can't say enough about Mobile Creches - it is so India, so organized, and so necessary to give these kids just the smallest chance in this big busy country.

Three of us then journeyed on our "mission" into Connaught Place and Main Market. It was a quick trip (three hours)but it was all India - the big, the small, the rich, the poor - all the colors, horns, and of course, the people I have come to know in a very special way.

I leave today for Hong Kong and then Japan (arriving Sunday afternoon). I have gotten to have time with some of the folks from Dharamshala (Donna and Tom) to catch up and rebond - very nice. I am all packed. While I write this, it is quite cold out and foggy - hope flights are not delayed too much - though I have a 10 hour layover in Hong Kong - nice planning!

So now, to a last walk in the park - through market, and then a note to the staff thanking them.

I am totally without words to describe these last 12 weeks. I miss Cliff and DP friends and others, but at the same time, this has been so eye-opening, mind blowing, and perspective shattering, that it will take me some time to "process" it all.

More pictures and thanks will be coming this way. I will do my best to blog from Tokyo- but as a tourist...different eyes again. I have a lot planned for my five full days and a bit more. Compared to 12 weeks it seems like almost a flyover.

Good-bye India - thank you for showing yourself to me in all your colors, chaos and beauty. I will never forget - I will spread the word.

The Taj and other Temples

This lock is at a large Hindu Temple complex in Delhi. There are statues of most of the major gods and goddesses and places to worship, take puja (an offering sweet) and get a blessing (either a tikka on the forhead or a red string on the wrist). We were able to go here and also to a Sikh temple (like the one in Amritsar- only smaller.





It was very interesting as we were accompanied by CCS gentleman who is Sikh and he was able to explain in great detail about the Sikh religion (it shed some light on things I had seen in Amritsar). I will need to get photos of the staff here also - I know I am bad about people pictures!~





These two are of my placement. I was able to get a shot of Emily playing with the kids in our "yard" through a hole in the brick building. I also took pictures of the kids and a couple of the teachers at their request. The tallest boy is actually a student! The two women next to him are teachers - no names - we just call each other "didi" meaning "older sister". I really have to make myself understood this week, as it is my last, so I can get good photos. I get conflicting ok's on pictures - some while coloring- no during function(which never happened). I know they want the kids to "look good" but I just want their faces and them doing any work or play...




On Saturday morning Caroline and I rose at 2:00 a.m. and started out at 2:30. The drive was easy - we slept most of the way. Our driver stopped at the entrance- in the dark - actually 1km from the ticket office. We arrived there about 5:50 a.m. There is a car-free zone around the Taj for pollution protection. We walked through all the rickshaw ride sellers and arrived at the gate. We bought our ticket (750 Rs for foreigners- about $18). Then we waited in line til about 7:15. We were then thoroughly searched and went in. The Taj is actually a complex of buildings, so you don't "see" it right away. There is a path with buildings and an arch on your right. Through the arch and...


I actually "teared up" a bit. I have read and seen pictures of this place all my life - and now here I was....only disappointment was that they were cleaning the pools, so no water reflection...it was still spectacular. We took photos and stood around waiting for sunrise. The building changed color often... It was quite misty. We then put on our shoe covers and went up onto the actual building and walked around. You can go all the way around the back - there were army and other military guards at the river bank below the Taj....There are also pollution meters - between the low level of the river and the danger of the Taj sinking and pollution - this site is actually quite in danger!



This is from the back of the Taj- it has inscriptions all the way around. We also went inside- it is very dark and there are the tombs there. I "snuck" some pictures but won't web them! Guides with flashlights showed how the detailed mosaics showed their colors. This is also being lost in the cleaning/pollution cycle.


There are huge gardens and lots of birds in the complex. We stayed about an hour and a half- it was getting crowded. We walked out the 1 km with young men selling things in our faces - this is hard sometimes - the deals are great but if you stop for one- you get surrounded by many.


Today, I am taking myself to brunch at the Lodi Garden Restaurant- one rickshaw ride alone is necessary - Everyone else has either gone home or there is a group at the Taj this a.m. There are quite a few westerners, but I will wear Indian, blend in (ha, ha) and have my solo outing...There were no problems at airports yesterday- despite some email warnings....it is just going to be a presence here.

I have five teaching days left. Some vols from Dharamshala come back Thursday and it will be good to see them again! Hope after "feedback" on Friday we can go out and have dinner. Then a plane on Saturday the 13th to Hong Kong and Japan...I have taken my Tokyo book out of "hiding" and will start on that. I have sent two more boxes home with some clothes and "stuff" - so I can travel light the rest of the way.

It is hard to believe 12 weeks are gone. I am ready to move on - the U.S. I am returning to is a very different place. I can't wait to see everyone and show my pictures (help with slide show would be great!)...I have no idea yet what will come of this adventure - I do know I want to continue to work with children who are poor or need tutoring. I will miss my kids the most!

Dancing, Jaipur, Shopping and more

Before all the mess in Mumbai, there were good times to be had. Earlier in the week, several of us went to the "Western mall" - Huge and very expensive stores. You have to go through security to get in! This was in place even before Mumbai stuff. Sarees there were going for about 75000 Rs ($1500 + in US$)... I had gelato (the spoons for each were separate - I did not get sick!)- It was fantastic. The mall has three levels - a food court and looks and feels just like one of our malls in the US (complete with "Nordstrom" piano player

Right below the mall on the main street were people living in tin shacks --- again the contrasts were so black and white - it just blows the mind.



A dance troop from Orissi (southern India) came to our flat and did a presentation for us. All states in India have their "native" dance- these girls have studied for more than 10 years each and this group travels internationally. It was beautiful. It takes them 2 hours to get ready for the performance with the makeup and clothes and hair.


Friday after placement - here is my classroom-

we were off to Jaipur - despite the issues in Mumbai - we did not want to stick around for "house arrest" on election day in Delhi. We drove through Guragon - one of the "outsourcing" areas and through the smog into cleaner Rajestan - drier, rolling hills, etc.. Camels were seen doing the pulling work.



After dinner in a very western restaurant - complete with Rajestani dancers and good food we went on to the Bisseau Palace Hotel. The room was beautiful. We listened to musicians in the lobby and went on to bed pretty early.




We got up early and looked around - the sky was clear and we shopped at a few small places in the courtyard of the hotel. Breakfast was a buffet for $4 for two of us. Our driver met us and we were off to the Amber Fort and an elephant ride (my pictures of me on the elephant are just what the seller took and I don't have them for computer). Big thing here is that anyone who lets you take their picture, or does anything for you expects (read- required) a tip (10-15 Rs usually).

It gets a bit old and you learn to take pictures secretly and to have plenty of 10 Rs notes ready. The ride up was wonderful and the Fort is amazing - so many places to see and halls to explore (we even found the water pulley and the loo - there are over 1000 of them in the fort).





After the fort we stopped several places and watched a cobra tamer - it was cool.


Then on to the City Palace - much more expensive to get into but much less to see. Several beautiful doors here. They were preparing for a wedding - that would cost a lot here - I decided I wished to be a mouse just for one night to see all the sarees, etc....

We shopped around in Jaipur (no markets for us - our driver decided too dangerous).
I would have loved to just wander some of the streets.

Lots of stuff to buy - bought a bit of this and that....Many motor scooters in Jaipur- one side of street for scooter parking (looked like a Harley reunion)and other side for cars and animals.

Jaipur is smaller and cleaner and feels much "older" than Delhi. Again, bright colors dominate but with a different style. Most of the women wear their saree scarves over their faces. They also wear more sarees than salwar suits there! Having been to several states it is clear that each has its own culture, flavor and traditions - and despite speaking English and Hindi - they hold their individualism and culture as special. I found more English speakers in Jaipur than even in Delhi (or at least the parts I have been in). It is a very tourist town - lots of westerners- less conservatively dressed - than in the parts of Delhi I have been to. It was good to be out of Delhi and in cleaner air- saw the stars! I wish more time had been available.

After lunch and shopping we headed home.

Sunday we went out to various markets - several rickshaw rides to get there - "M" is not next to "N" and II is not next to I - really confusing.

We went to a sweet shop and bought boxes of Barfi (assorted sweets - so many I can't keep track - some good - some not- almost no chocolate). All the sweets are very sweet - so a little goes a long way. A box like the one in the picture was 75 Rs (less than $2).

Onward to my last 12 days in India - I will try and take more pictures of the kids - it is hard - they get very excited and the pictures are blurry...a bit more shopping-sending of packages home to make room for Japan. My cold is better - maybe the clean air helped.