The Week before Diwali

Hello again:

The sun still shines here. This is a picture of my room (my side - not my roomies). Work and play seem to meld here.



Saturday I walked up to McLeod and then further to the Tibetian Children's Village for their 48th anniversary and to see the Dalai Lama. It took about an hour and a half but easier than waiting in cab lines. My bananas and PB sandwiches came in handy. I found myself seated across an athletic field from where the Dalai Lama would sit. I was on some concrete stairs with many others (including this small lamb that helped himself to a lap!


It was right out of Harry Potter - the school is divided into four houses - with flags and house head (one boy/one girl).



All four houses marched in and stood while the school band (70 strong) played. Then His Holiness came in and walked up to the top floor where he stood for the parade in of all the students. Some people gave speeches and then the Dalai Lama spoke for about 30 minutes. He looked quite well, just having returned the week before from New Delhi where he had had some gallstones removed.




This was more time seeing him than when he spoke. It seemed less "holy" but still quite special. The Tibetians have had this school here for 48 years and it is used to educate the children - especially orphans whose parents are dead or still possibly in Tibet. There was no translation- unfortunately. The whole thing was about three hours. I really enjoyed sitting with the people - they brought blankets, tea, food - the kids were dressed up in all their finery for the occasion. I sat among mostly Tibetians but had the good fortune to walk up and back with several groups who spoke English and we shared our tales.

The Dalai Lama then did the white scarf blessing with some of the special visitors and went off to a lunch (one of the women I hiked back with had gotten around back and almost ran into him- literally - she had a great picture!) Then I hiked down to McLeod for lunch (a tuna and tomato sandwich and green tea) and a bit of shopping. The on down to Dharamshala (total of about 4.5 hours walking - yeah for me!). I saw a huge monkey - he was grey and had more of a monkey than baboon look - I didn't stop to take pictures because others were throwing things at several of us from the trees - seemed like a good time to move on!

I walked through market yesterday and it was like being at the mall the day or two before Christmas - tons of people - shops full - many tables of sweets and firecrackers and diyas (oil and wick holders) for sale. I bought some plastic garlands for our room at the flat. I also ordered and picked up a new suit (salwar kameeze) in brown with embroidery - it is fashion to get a new suit for the holiday. Giving household good (stainless steel cups, tins, pressure cookers, etc is very popular). Many big ticket items come with several "prizes" - ie DVD players with 10 movies. Despite the traffic and crowds, everyone was quite nice - shopkeepers were very very busy and buses disgorged large numbers from outside the area - all set on doing their last minute Diwali shopping (Diwali starts Tuesday October 28). It is a holiday called the Festival of Lights. The small lamps are lit to keep away evil and the goddess Lakshmi is worshipped to bring prosperity to the family. Houses are decorated with lights (think how we decorate for Christmas), though only a day or two before the festival. Several days of festivities will follow Tuesday (we do not have our teaching assignments for three days).

In the women's group we celebrated one of our lady's birthday. She brought a cake and cookies and we made chai. We gave her a journal. She gave us Diwali presents of earrings! This is me and the birthday girl! The person with the birthday feeds small bites of the cake first to each guest to show affection. It is a sweet and touching ritual - they take it very seriously. All these women are so open in their feelings and affections - especially with other women. You can see that they lean on each other for support, a place to vent, play and be themselves before returning to their world of hard work and family responsibilities. They care deeply for each other and are open and warm to letting us into their lives and families.



I will be traveling up to Naddi (near Triund at 10,000 feet) tomorrow and then over the weekend to Amritsar (where the Golden Temple is - most holy spot for Sikhs). There will be four of us and I am sure my blog will be very long and full. It is hard to believe I have 17 days left here in Dharamshala - I am truly blessed to have this time and be able to do this.

A "Normal" Week

Hello all:

It has been a slow and steady week with more "regular" activities than special ones. I find that when I am down or homesick, I walk down to market, namaste people, smile and say "hello" to some children and "take my life in my hands" walking through traffic.



The weather has been dry and sunny. The photo is one of an approaching storm - we are right up with the thunder and lightening! I have continued with yoga and Ragu has moved on to other poses; though he always starts with sun salutations. I am trying an afternoon class (there are 19 new volunteers so the class may be quite crowded!).

Yesterday the women's group when to a 'mundan' or boy baby blessing ceremony. The baby had his head shaved in temple (which we did not see the previous day) and then the partying began. It went all night and then the day we were there. There was a band and dancing, food and drink (they carefully served us chai, Fanta orange, and some cookies and sweets we could eat!). The house was beautiful - white with elaborate tile, etc. It turns out to be the mother-in-laws house and our group member lives next door with her family (she is only 17). I enjoyed the dancing and being able to see the women in their own elements. I want to get permission before pubing photos...





I hiked part way up a new back route to McLeod - need boots and stick then I will go further. Sometimes it really is "where is the trail?" - as you can see from the photo. Also hiked up the "regular" way - tried to pretend I didn't see the monkeys and they didn't see me! Bought a singing bowl and spent an hour looking at Pashmina and other shawls. The shopkeepers pull everything out and pile them high. They give you chai and show their "credentials". Only at the end when you have several picked out does the price talk begin. Negociating can go on for quite a while and usually you end up spending less than half what they start at. I actually walked away with nothing on that go - I just wasn't "in love" with any of it - the Pashmina has quite a history but I actually like the silk/cotton mix or the Paisley better (the term Paisley comes from the swirls on the material that mimic the curved imprint of the side of the hand of the person "signing" the paper etc - from many centuries ago.

Other interesting facts: Our "drug stores" or convenience stores are called "daily needs stores". Other items are quite segregated by type (magazines are separate from personal hygiene items like toothpaste/shampoo etc). There are separate stores for shoes, ready-made clothing, tailors etc. Back ends of trucks have "BLOW HORN" on the back. Turn signals are used to let those behind you know they should pull ahead of you (never to show you are actually turning that I have seen).



The entire town is preparing for Diwali (Festival of Lights) which starts next Tuesday night the 28th. Houses, walls (inside and out) get new colors of paint. Weeds are dug up. The tailors are booked solid making clothing and the small pots for the lights have sold out - poof! Of course, Tuesday night will have the fireworks - for those in Seattle - think the kind you get on the Reservations! Big big bang.

This is a bit short and ordinary- it is good to see day-to-day life as the people do (at least a bit). I don't work anywhere near as hard - behind the house a group of men are breaking up huge boulders by hand (with hammer and chisle). They work all day - with few breaks - slow and steady. No drama, no complaints(at least none I can discover via tone of voice). It is work that needs doing and is getting done. The horses and mules carry their loads daily, the birds sing, the babies scream or laugh...children ask for chocolate. Women walk to and fro with loads on their heads or by their sides. Children are never left wanting a hug or comfort. The ordinary comes and goes quietly (or not so quietly) every day. Drama only seems to enter via emails or phone calls or through my head or through the Internet when I read about the upcoming election, etc. It does seem my "worries" are there - just hidden behind miles and a veneer made by the clothes I wear. I have brought myself to India - in five weeks I am seeing more clearly who I am - the traits I admire and that others seem to - as well as those I would rather leave behind.

I wake eager for the days work, most of the time; and still find myself thinking about Delhi - three weeks out - etc. I will catch myself in the moment and be grateful for having nothing "better" to do at that moment. How can I bring this home?

Settling and Sinking In

Another weekend has passed. Two groups departed to various outings (one climbing and one to Amritsar (I will go later). There were three of us left and we fended well for ourselves (did some of our own cooking, ate up in McLeod Ganj etc).

On Saturday, I took a cab and went off to Palampur (about an hours drive out from Dharamshala). The driver took me to various sites (all for about $40 US for 7.5 hours). I visited two temples (one to Durga and one to Shiva), a pottery studio, an art gallery, a tea factory and saw the sites around the area.

Palampur is quite a bit larger than Dharamshala but the market looked pretty much the same - just more stores. However, the produce seemed more varied and more plentiful. The Durga temple (Chambra Devi) was very bright and busy with almost a carnival air to it. Pictures were not permitted in the inside but the Durga (goddess of war/power) was clothed in red - I was told this was a particularly wrathful version of the goddess. People hawking offerings lined the entrance area, pushing their wares. Upon entering, we removed shoes (yes, they were still there when we returned), washed hands, and walked in barefooted. After offering a few rupees and obtaining our blessing and some sweets we emerged into the temple area where there was a large pool. People were swimming and there were paddle boats around. Several statues surrounded by metal picket fences and in sad need of repainting were around. There were monkeys, goats, and lizards around. There was also a camera store - which really seemed out of place.




Another temple was a Shiva temple - I liked this one lots more.
It was very old, elaborately carved stone. It actually felt more holy to me. Of course there were many people but only one selling offerings (usually rice, coconuts, etc). We again made an offering and got more of the dried sweets - I tried a small piece and threw the rest to the birds later! It does seem that each god/goddess has a distinct personality that comes out in the temple feeling, architecture, etc. I feel much more drawn to the Shiva sites.


I also went to a tea factory and was taken on a personal tour of the plant. On the way, we passed many fields of tea plants. The person taking me around explained the tea-making process in great detail from harvest, to drying, to rolling, to grading, etc. There are 35 year around workers and more for the harvest times (March - October if the weather cooperates). The Kangra tea is a Chinese hybrid and competes directly with Dargeeling. I bought a box of A and B tea (C or broken tea is the finely ground tea that is used in bags). My guide said C grade tea colors the water but has little taste! Yes, I will bring home some for sampling. Two huge boxes cost me only $4 US (about 200 R).

I found that even when driving on "real" two lane roads the drivers are quite willing to pass on curves and always are blowing horns. I have no idea how tires and suspension lasts at all on these roads. I was quite bruised from 5 hours of driving around, and always glad when we arrived somewhere to walk about.

The mountain views were awesome also - from lower in the valley.

During this same weekend we were up in McLeod and I got to take pictures of the temple where the Dalai Lama spoke - so I can now illustrate more clearly where I was during the talk. That temple really feels very holy and special. People enter and several were doing prostrations. Workers were refinishing the floors and several monks and lay people were seated in various places praying or saying their prayer beads. It is quiet and respectful. I want to return there for the peaceful feeling. (the downloading is going slowly - so these pics will come next "issue")

I have had several foods in McLeod - one must be very careful. The hot porrage with honey and banana was excellent, as was the vegetarian spaghetti - Italian spots do a roaring business, as do the bars - Kingfisher is the beer of choice - I haven't had alcohol because the altitude makes getting drunk worse - and it doesn't take much to affect me at sea level!

The amount of quiet time is amazing. With most people preparing for several holidays, there is little to do. I will probably go to market tomorrow - again another holiday - for the writer of the Ramayana. Dinner tonight is a mix of mashed potatoes, spaghetti and red sauce (think Indian hot), a chicken and mushroom dish and the ever present "salad" of sliced onion, tomato, cucumber, and radish.

Tomorrow we will meet the head of CCS in India Mrs. Bela Singh and then I will help the cook, Rakesh, make the halwah - a sweet wheat (fruit- this time pumpkin), and sugar desert that I love.

I have also succumbed to the cold that has been going around - so I have the sore throat and a bit of sniffles. I am moving upstairs in the house tomorrow - I will end up with a new roomie - my Aussie is moving in with someone else....the attachment thing coming home again! The second floor is nice with a balcony and view and is quieter. I will have the room to myself for a few days- kind of a bonus.

Hope all is well and I am enjoying your emails to me ( I am now admitting to a bit of homesickness- text messages and emails are encouraged - this is a normal thing here- nothing to "worry" about - I am asking for what I need! Thanks to all Driftwood Players members who have been keeping me in touch and for making my husband feel at home, as he helps build set for "Fiddler".

Dalai Lama, Thunderstorms, and me

It has been an interesting week. On Saturday I went to see the Dalai Lama. No cameras or cell phones were permitted - so this is all my my notes taken as I sat. I did not have an FM radio (communication gap). I followed along as things happened.

I entered through a large gate and went through security - there were bag and body searches - thoroughly but kindly done. I had a pass, so was able to go upstairs to the "foreigners" section. Seats were already scarce - I ended up sitting about 15 feet from the temple where His Holiness sat but I was blocked by a door from seeing much of him (though I caught a glimpse on his way downstairs at the end). As we came in there was chanting of the Om Mane Pad Me Om (please excuse any transliteration errors). More took their seats and then all stood as he entered. The talk was to be on the Bodhisattva and the Middle Path of Meditation. It seemed that a dialogue was going on /or another person was reading and the Dalai Lama was commenting on the reading. After a bit, and intermittently thereafter, there were call and response type prayers. His voice was strong and he spoke entirely in Tibetan. Large fat pitta were passed out (about 6 in in diameter and about an inch thick). Tibetans near us motioned for us to put the bread aside and wait for the "tea". It came and it was butter tea (yak milk, sugar, and a bit of tea) I was one of the few who liked it. The bread was plain but great dunked in the tea- as the Tibetans did.

Then the Bodhisattva initiation took place. It was quite amazing to participate in and to watch. I had time (total time was about three hours) to watch those near me and some prayed, some talked quietly, and some fiddled (a young monk near me decorated his styrafoam cup with his fingernail!). We donned red bands and placed flower petals inside. Rice was thrown as were white scarves. All was done with reverence and yet in a lighthearted way. At one point, during a prayer, the Dalai Lama hesitated over some words - and then apparently made a joke about it - he has a warm loving laugh! After - there was food - of which we did not partake. I bought a book on the 37 ways of the Bodhisattva to read.

My placement goes well. We are down to just the three women and that is fine. We now have two computers so two can practice their typing at the same time. The Durga festival (which concludes tonight) has continued on - with singing and chanting late into each night. There are also many weddings going on - as this is an auspicious time to be married. October is the time for holidays (there are two more next week). The one I am anticipating is Duwali (Duvali) - the Festival of Lights - near the end of October.


After the Dalai Lama - I got my camera from someone who met us after - I hiked up to the waterfall at Bagshu - and then on to the Shiva Cafe a bit rougher and higher - but I was so glad I went!


Monday another volunteer and I climbed up to the temple at Indernag - it was a good hike but not too much. We also spent an hour with a sadu at a monkey temple on the way down. I am learning that time literally does stand still here. There is not much to do but walk, visit market, read, write and walk some more.


There have also been huge thunderstorms - I do mean huge with lightening and thunder and tremendous rains - Seattlites - think heavier than last January's floods!!! Water runs down steps, lights flicker and the world goes dark. My Monday yoga class took place during such a storm and we could barely see or hear (metal roof). The area is so clear and clean and cool after these storms - though they are considered unusual since the monsoon season has past (thank you global warming!)

I was very tired after Indernag and suffered my first tummy trouble - not sure what it was from but it passed quickly. The full meal of fried foods was not quite so welcome last night - the morning porrage (dalyia) was very good, however.

Several people are journeying this weekend - I am hoping to get a group together to go to Amritsar (the Golden Temple) next weekend. On one hand it feels like I "should" be doing more - but on the other - it is peaceful here and I am happy to not be a tourist - I continue to wear salwar/kameeze all day most days - except for hikes - others shed theirs for western dress right after placement - to each their own. My camera and paper and pen have been good companions. One of the Aussie's is leaving tomorrow - I will miss Sophie - she is a remarkable young woman. Others are leaving also tomorrow and a new group arrives on the 20th - I think.

I miss you at home - mostly to take around and show things to. I would love to take a small plane over these hills and valleys (of course not the high peaks).

I will blog again soon - I will just be with this weekend and see what it brings.(a monkey is climbing past the Internet cafe as I blog....is it a sign?

The Other Side of the Coin

This week has been more focused on the Tibetan aspect of the area. We have had a talk by a Lama and gone to Norbulingka (a center for Tibetan art and culture). The Lama spoke of loving kindness, compassion and gave an example of his regular day (lots of sitting practice). He traveled extensively with the Dalai Lama for many years before being made head of the center. Norbulingka is a center about an hour out of Dharamshala that teaches young Tibetans the various arts of their culture, including metal and woodworking, and art and applique work. When you go north to McLeodGanj it is like moving into a different world. About half way up this steep, hairpin-turn lined "road" the buildings and people change into Tibetan (houses are yellow- different dress, etc). There were many cool gifts, a beautiful garden full of prayer flags, and our guide described in detail how many years the apprentices study for their art (usually somewhere between 3 and 12 years).


McLeodGanj is a bustling town (especially with the Dalai Lama speaking these two weeks). One can hear every language imaginable and there is a full range of dress, including Indian, western (ie bare arms, tight jeans, etc) and everything in between. There are leporous beggars (missing toes, fingers, etc) begging everywhere. Tons of shops selling absolutely everything. Prices vary considerably and I will do lots of looking before spending too much money. I did fall in love with a small brass bull (from whispering in the statue's ear on Sunday). He is a representation of Rama and if you whisper a wish in his ear while holding the other shut- your wish may be granted - we will see (I can't tell because it is kind of like birthday wishes). I did not find McLeod very spiritual at all. I got my pass to see the Dalai Lama (I will go either tomorrow afternoon or Saturday).


Other side trips have included a trip to a Hindi temple and picnic by a river on Sunday. We honored Shiva and got sacred ash put on our heads. Women cover their heads and all take off their shoes and wash hands, feet and mouth (sort of for those careful of the water). There is a fire there that has been burning for over 500 years. It was very hot but quite beautiful. Huge boulders and fast running water (though the level is quite low for the season). It was quite cold but with the help of the kitchen staff who fed us - I got across - I was glad for my hiking stick!

Also of Hindi interest is that the area is celebrating the 9 day festival of the goddess Durga -goddess of war, power, strength. They worship her every night and on the 9th night they tell the story of Rama's defeat of Ravana with the help of the monkey god. They burn an effigy of Ravana. Special foods are prepared and we had a lunch that included the desert Halwa (cooked wheat, sugar, dried fruit and nuts)- YUM!

Most of the women are off celebrating and after today it looks like we may be down to three - things do change fast around here!. We have another volunteer helping teach computer and the women love that - these three women will probably make good progress in their studies with the smaller class and one-on-one teaching.

On a personal front - I have stayed healthy. I am taking yoga daily - I am the only one who comes regularly. I love the class and Ragu (soft "g" - not like the spagetti sauce!) is going to start Pranayama (breathing exercises) with me on Monday. The food is excellent. I got to help prepare the Naan yesterday, though the cook is quite particular and had to fix mine - it is harder than it looks, especially the slapping between your palms to flatten the dough before putting it in the tandoor. The cook Rakesh says I may try again the next time - I did better on the second one than the first! The tandoor chicken was sooooo tender!

I am wearing western clothes (loose)today - but it feels odd - I actually enjoy the salwar kameeze- except perhaps the scarf which still doesn't stay up - some of the women have told me to pin it, especially the slippery ones. I need to get a cup for the butter tea they serve at the Dalai Lama's teachings - it is boiled so I will definitely take the chance. I am also hoping to hike this weekend - while I enjoy the yoga, I need to move more - though the altitude does take it out of you.

Other things- words are a mix for us of Indian English, British English (like "taking breakfast", Aussie words and Indian food words like curd for yougert, "toned" milk for shelf stable milk - the bagged milk is very "iffy" in my mind. They give us apples, bananas, persimons, pomegranates, limes, tomatoes etc but we wash and peel with due care - the hardest is remembering not to brush teeth in the water - our "safe" bottles of water are ever present and always being filled. Chai (milky sweet/spicy tea) is the only thing we can accept unless we go to McLeod and the restaurants are still iffy there - and there is so much street food and it smells good.

This week has gone faster than the last - I can't believe tomorrow is Friday! I got a fast connection in town - so lots of pictures~!