Weekend in Amritsar

After a wonderful long weekend I am "home" again.

Amritsar is in the Punjab - a state in India west of Himachael Pradesh. The drive took us from 1:30 p.m. til 6:15 p.m. to make. The roads were interesting. We opted to pay a bit more for a taxi with AC and were glad of it. (the driver stays with the cab, takes you where you want to go and returns you - all for about $40 per person total - so with four people it was 8000 Rs). Coming into the Punjab the land gets flat and there was tons of harvesting going on- rice, wheat, sugarcane, etc. The "goods carriers" decorated trucks that carry everything everywhere were full of hay and grain. The roads varied between quite good and barely there. There was a lot of construction going on - especially of bridges and overpasses. Unlike in the States where detours take you - around - the mess - the temporary roads go right under the construction of huge overpasses, etc. Other temporary roads are just raised bits over big dry riverbeds.



All manner of vehicle run on these roads, bikes, scooters with up to four people on them, cars, carts, pedicabs, rickshaws, and trucks of all sizes. Horns are used to pass (especially when there is oncoming traffic). At night they "use dipper" to let others know they are passing (dipper is your bright lights which you "blink"). There are few if any traffic signals and no lanes.

Arriving in Amritsar at 6 p.m. we were cleared through a police barrier into the inner circle near the Golden Temple. This is the most holy site for Sikhs and has the best safety record of all-no stampedes, deaths, riots, etc. After settling in our rooms (there were four of us and we shared two view rooms- 2750 Rs per night about $45 each for two nights). Before entering the temple, you put your shoes with a shoe keeper - free- you get a chit and a cubby -everyone who works at the Golden Temple is a volunteer and all races, creeds, etc are welcomed with open arms. We wore Indian clothes and while we got stared at quite a bit and asked often for a "snap"- photo with a person, family, or group - we were in no way harrassed! After storing your shoes you cover your head - men and women both, walk through a shallow running water area to clean your feet and enter up into the temple. It is a rectangular area with the "Golden" part in the middle accessable by a walkway. We never got that far since the lines were very long- several hours worth usually. The center building is where the holy book is kept - it is brought in early in the morning and brought out for safekeeping late at night. We were able to see it brought out. A kind Sikh man from Toronto explained a lot to us and tried to get us to go closer. While it is safe, the fervor was palpable and we were a bit intimidated. The four of us were determined to go about only together or in pairs.



After walking around the entire complex, we went back for dinner - usually starts about 8:30. We were unable to find a "safe" restaurant, so we ate Indian at the hotel - actually quite good. Specialties included corn roti and a spinich, corn, peas mixture - we also kept vegetarian for safety - there was tons of food around but we were wary of street food - though there were times I considered it - especially in the mornings when only jam toast and tea were available.



The next day we went to the Golden Temple before sunrise to watch the sun on the buildings. Again, we were noticed but not bothered. Men were bathing in the holy water (Amritsar actually means holy nectar - relating to the water around the temple). People can stay and eat in the complex for a few rupees donation. Over the course of the weekend, the numbers increased but there was never any real feeling of crowding - it was a big big place.

After breakfast, we walked about and visited the memorial to the people killed by British troops in 1919. There was a beautiful garden and we were snagged for several group "snaps". It was quite hot and after a bit of window shopping we headed back and walked around the outside of the temple past the guest houses and some other gardens. Amritsar is very crowded and the rickshaw drivers are very forward in attempting to persuade you that you really do need a ride. It is really bad, if you are lost, to get in one because you will really "be taken for a ride"! Toes must be guarded at all costs. There is also a great number of beggars- much more assertive than in McLeod or Dharamshala - probably more like Delhi will be. I found some tabla but ended up buying them the next day.




Later that day we took our cab to several temples and then to the India/Pakistani border for the changing of the guard. Since our cab was only allowed out once a day-we had to do it all in one go. The first temple was the Durgiana Temple - another temple to Durga - Again, and I haven't got a clue why, but I was very uncomfortable. This is also called the silver temple because all the doors are huge silver panels. There was another "lake" around this temple.




The second temple was the Mata (mother) temple. It was like an amusement park - you went up stairs, around and up and down following a predesigned path. There were statues, stories, alters, glass mosaics, etc. There was a tunnel to crawl through and a "river" to wade in - ankle deep - to guarantee pregnancy (though not all of us have that to worry about!). There also was a bedecked statue to Indira Ghandi whose assassination day remembrance was 31 Oct.

After this, we took an hour drive west to the India/Pakistani border. This is quite a show. We got there early and sat and had Coke with a group of school girls (high school age) and then a big crowd push to the stands. It was really tight and men and women were separated for searching - only water bottle and camera and belly bag with passport were allowed.


We got to the stands and got a great seat. There was a Master of Ceremonies on both sides, chanting call and response with the watchers. There was dancing in the street coming up to the border gates. It was quite wild. Our side was bright with colorful saris and salwar suits (men and women sit separately). At 5:15 the guards from both sides march around and change positions. The two countries flags are brought down. There is much stomping about and showing "off". The national fervor was wild and we joined in the chants for "Hindustani jindabad!" - Great India - while the Pakistani side chanted "Pakistan jindabad!". After it was over, we filed out - less packed in than coming in and drove back in the dark to Amritsar. I really enjoyed the students we were with and all the color. Despite the tight quarters, the women look after each other carefully and we were well taken care of by the girls.

We ate dinner in the hotel that night - very tired. More Indian dal, aloo (potato), etc. In the morning we shopped for shoes and I bought my tabla (drums) for 450Rs (about $5). Shipping them home will cost more. We left for home about 11 a.m. and stopped and had lunch in Pathancot - a town close the the Himachael border. It was lovely eating out in the garden. I had thali (plate lunch) which included a dal, a vegetable curry, naan bread, crisp bread, raits (a cold youghert and herbs - I ate a little and did not fall ill!) and a tea. We arrived tired but well sated about 5:30. Time for a shower and rest.

This is only a brief overview - there was so much going on- to see, hear, feel. I barely seem to notice the dirt, bustling etc. I respond well to horns and can dissuade touts with a 'nei' 'nei' and swipe of the hand with the best of them. I felt good getting "out of town" and enjoyed seeing another part of India. I really don't think I could do this country "alone" though....it can truly be overwhelming. Try though

It is hard to believe I have 10 days left here in Dharamshala- I got a bit teary riding up the hill and looking at "my" town. There is so much I don't know about this place but it feels comfortable and I am more at ease here than in the bustle. That will be a big challenge in Delhi where I will be more restricted in where and when I can go alone. I feel safe in the market and hills here and love waking to the birds and clopping hooves. This week we will have some new women joining and it will be a full week of class - no holidays. Several people have fallen ill with Delhi belly - but I have been lucky. I hope truly that my "luck" continues. I am missing chocolate badly but have gained a few kg and need to watch my portions. I will probably have one more salwar suit made before I go (for a total of five). I am enjoying the colors.